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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.